Leaking Valves : The EASY way to deal with it

Inside your home the likeliest fixtures to leak are the faucet valves. These leaks may begin as a slow and intermittent drip after you notice that a certain fixture takes more and more pressure to turn off. The components that are most subject to wear inside a fixture valve are usually rubber and brass and are easily replaceable with the proper tools.

• To repair a leaking faucet valve in either a bath tub or sink, you will need an adjustable wrench and a Philips screw driver.
• First turn off the water supply to the faucet.
• The shut off valves for hot and cold are generally located under sinks or in the wall behind a tub or shower, accessed through a removable panel. Valves for upper floor bathrooms are sometimes located in the basement ceiling.
• A word of caution: These shut off valves are rarely used, and a lack of use can cause the internal seals to become brittle; leading to a leak when you do finally turn one off.
• This book will address repairs to this valve as well.
• If shut off valves are not accessible you will need to turn off the water at the hot water heater or the main water line.
• Next remove the faucet handle by prying off the handle screw cap on top of the handle, then remove the Philips screw and handle. With the handle removed, the packing nut will be exposed, which can be removed with an adjustable wrench or channel lock pliers.

Price-Pfister kitchen sink valve, handle screw and cap

• With the packing nut removed, the valve stem can be removed; also with an adjustable wrench or pliers. When using pliers you should use caution to keep from damaging the valve stem.

Price-Pfister bathroom sink valve stem and seat removal. Note press fit washer.

Next you will locate the Phillips head screw on the bottom of the valve stem and remove it and the washer. Note that some valve stems will not have a screw; the washer may press fit into the bottom of the valve stem.

• Take the washer and your valve stem to your local hardware store to find a matching replacement. While you have the valve stem removed, it is advisable to replace the packing and valve stem seat, and it makes good sense to replace these components on both the hot and cold valves at the same time, because as one component fails others are likely to follow.
• If you are replacing a valve stem seat you will need a special tool called a valve seat wrench.

Valve seat removed, note damage at right.

• The assembly of the valve components is simply the reverse of the disassembly, with the exception of using some petroleum jelly on the valve stem washer and packing for both ease of assembly and to help seal the components.
• When tightening these components, they should be made hand tight then tightened two to three additional turns with your wrench.

As previously mentioned, a leaking shut off valve under the sink may be one undesired result of performing repairs to leaking faucets. This valve is identical or similar to the valve behind toilets and is easily repaired. When servicing toilet valves it is recommended that you place a container under the valve to catch any residual water.

• You will first need to shut off the water supply to the valve, likely either at the hot water heater or the main water supply.
• The valve will have a Phillips screw that needs to be removed in order to remove the handle, and a packing nut that can be removed with an adjustable wrench.

Removing the packing nut and valve stem from broken toilet stop valve

• Remove the valve stem and take it to your local hardware store to find correct replacement washers.
• Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
• Sometimes a leaking valve can be repaired by simply tightening the packing nut; to tighten the packing nut start atfinger tight, and make 1/8 turns with a wrench until the leak has stopped.

If you are unable to find replacement washers, or if the new washers do not fix the leak, the valve can be easily replaced.

• First remove the outlet water hose by loosening the nut and removing the hose.
• Next remove the valve from the supply pipe using an adjustable wrench to turn the valve and channel lock pliers or a pipe wrench to keep the pipe from turning.
• Some valves may be soldered requiring the use of a torch to remove them.
• Once the old valve has been removed, take it to your local hardware store to ensure that you find the proper replacement valve.
• Installation is the reverse of removal but the threaded pipe will need to be wrapped with Teflon tape first. Before the tape is applied the pipe threads will need to be cleaned. A hand or rotary wire brush will remove corrosion and debris prior to application of the tape.
• Wrap the pipe with tape. Start at the end of the pipe and following the direction of the threads, overlap each layer by 2/3 the width of the tape.
• Install the new valve using an adjustable wrench, and attach the fixture supply hose. Be sure to test the newly installed valve for leaks. If a leak is present in the valve itself, try tightening the packing nut 1/8 turn to stop the leak.