Avoid Burst Pipes in the Winter

When you first notice that chill in the fall air, its time to start thinking about your home's plumbing and how to keep it safe from Old Man Winter.

You need to be aware that the plumbing in your home can freeze if you live in a region where the temperature drops below freezing. Pipes in your home can freeze and subsequently burst if not properly maintained. Not only does the ruptured plumbing need repaired but the collateral water damage can be very destructive. A few simple steps in the late fall can save much frustration and expense.

Start with the outside of your home. Disconnect all hoses and properly store them for the winter. Leaving them connected can damage your faucet. Next, inspect the faucet to make sure there are no leaks or drips. These can also lead to damaged plumbing. Finally, there are outside faucet insulating caps that can be obtained for extra assurance. These caps are typically made of Styrofoam and are very inexpensive.

The next step is to locate any pipes that are in unheated spaces in your home. The garage is a common place to find such plumbing. Wrap these pipes in foam padding specially designed for the job. This padding can be purchased at hardware or home improvement stores. The padding helps insulate the pipes and prevent freezing. A do-it-yourself alternative is to wrap the pipes with rags and duct tape. However, this process is not recommended since any slow leaks in your pipes will wet the rags and negate the their insulating properties.

Throughout the winter it is advisable to allow each faucet in your home to run periodically. Pipes can freeze very slowly and running hot water through them can melt any accumulated ice in the lines. It advisable to utilize this procedure more often with faucets located on an outside wall.

Additionally, make sure that you are heating all spaces in your home at least minimally. It is often difficult to tell where pipes are in your walls. Deciding not heat your spare bedroom can leave sections of pipe more likely to freeze and burst if they are located in the adjoining walls.

Lastly, it might be necessary to place space heaters or lamps near pipes in unheated areas if the temperature drops dramatically. Living in Minnesota, I am keenly aware of this as the actual temperature can reach -20 F. Temperatures this low can quickly cause sever damage to a plumbing system if not properly protected.

By taking these inexpensive, simple steps you can protect your home from a nasty surprise. If you would like more guidance on how to protect your home, contact a local plumber or contractor.




By Eric Parish
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3998033

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The Danger of Dezincification in Your Home Pipes

Dezincification in Your Home Pipes

While the most recent plumbing technology has solved the problem known as dezincification, the truth is that not all homes actually have the most recent pipes available installed. Because of this, the particular type of corrosion known as dezincification can still occur in the present, despite the fact that it is technically solved. Dezincification is a serious problem that can lead to a variety of related ones, and it is important to recognize and avoid the dangers it can cause. What follows should leave you with a good understanding of exactly how serious dezincification is.

In certain conditions, the zinc in a pipe can dissolve. This is particularly true when chlorinated water is present. In fact, chlorinated water can dissolve copper as well, but generally leaves it behind. However, it takes the zinc with it. This causes a wide variety of problems. Zinc, while required for human health, is problematic if overused, and downright toxic if it reaches a certain level of concentration. Additionally, there is the simple problem of corroded pipes becoming weaker and failing in some way.

Dezincification can be stopped in a wide variety of different ways. One technique, developed early on as soon as dezincification was discovered, is using arsenic as an addition to the brass pipe. Tin can be used in a similar way as an alternative to arsenic as well. In addition to this, gunmetal can replace brass entirely, as it does not result in dezincification. These techniques are standard now, and pipes that are protected against dezincification are clearly labeled as such for easy identification. In the USA, the letters "CR" are used to represent the phrase "corrosion resistant." However, in the UK a different labeling system is used. There, pipes are labeled "DZR," or dezincification resistant. In Australia, pipes are labeled as dezincification resistant with the letters "DR."

As you can see, dezincification is a serious problem. This particular type of corrosion can lead to problems with your plumbing, and it can even cause health risks under the worst circumstances. However, by using corrosion resistant pipes, which are clearly labeled as such, it is possible to avoid the risks of dezincification. This is the responsible thing to do when faced with the alternatives of toxic water and damaged pipes. While it might be tempting to simply leave your plumbing alone, you will be rewarded in the long run for making sure that your home is not in danger from this particular problem.


By Jerry L Work 
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4331233

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How to Control Noisy Pipes ?

Control Noisy Pipes

Banging, cracking, rattling, whistling - noisy water pipes and connections are not to be overlooked, they might point out critical plumbing troubles. Learn in what way to listen to, and quiet noisy water pipes.

Water Hammer

In case you overhear earsplitting hammering after closing water-availability, this is a water hammer problem that happens once water slams into a shut off control device subsequent to charging down a pipe at high velocity. Left untreated, the recurring collisions ruin piping and fittings. Water hammer arresters are inserted into specific sections to absorb the force of water, and thwart water from crushing into the shut off regulator. Hammering sounds point out that air has escaped. Emptying water from the pipes ought to renew the water hammer arresters. Turn off water supply to the home. Turn on lowermost taps in or around the premises to flush the network.

Cracking

Creaking sounds appear with the stretching and shrinking of the copper water pipes that carry hot water.

Clattering

When you overhear your piping rattling or shaking anytime water is charging through, chances are they are loosely attached. Water velocity charging through unfastened piping makes them collide against the wall, producing the clattering noise. Anchor the pipe in place or pad the pipe to stop the clattering sound.

Shrieking

As soon as water runs through a limited zone of the pipeline a shrieking sound is produced. This is typically caused by deposit buildup, or a defective washer or valve. If shrieking arises whenever you switch on a particular spout, replace the washer or valve to solve the problem. If shrilling arises as soon as any spout is turned on, the restriction may be located in the central water-supply regulator. If possible, adjust water pressure, yet if the whistling sound persists a plumbing service provider might replace the original control device.

Pick up on your noisy pipes to understand in what way to repair them. Left untreated, noisy pipes usually worsen into costly plumbing crises like split pipes, rusted pipes or dripping pipelines.




By Steven Thorn
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4148661

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Storm Water Pipes - Stable Where it Counts

Storm Water Pipes 

'Stability' is a word that is overused in this day and age. We hear economic stability, political stability and social stability, but these expressions don't account for stability where it counts. They are vague ideas. But there is nothing vague about the right infrastructure, and if you think by 'infrastructure' we're referring to roads and bridges then that's a limited view of infrastructure. Infrastructure is not the exclusive domain of the inner city. Infrastructure covers a whole lot of bases that companies like specialty plumbing operations make it their business to cover. Whether it's on the farm or right in the home, the specialist plumbing operation wants to find the right infrastructure for your business and your lifestyle.

Pipes are a part of a large mechanism that maintains order, stability and flow for millions of people. Pipes are rarely seen by people other than plumbers, but underneath us is an underground network of arteries that keep life and water flowing for people at home and in business. No one appreciates it. Until something goes wrong. Our job is to make sure you have to think about pipes as little as possible. Pipes are our department. We know they keep things stable while they keep thing moving. This sounds like a bit of a paradox but stability relies on movement in all aspects of life. Just think of the circulatory system in our own bodies.

Specialty knowledge and experience is crucial to the product sale and maintenance of the right equipment. The 'right equipment' is used by industry people to the point where it loses its meaning. It's become a banal advertising jingle that no one takes seriously anymore. But plumbing specialists take the idea of the right equipment very seriously. That's why it's dedicated just as much to product as service. Think about a business that specializes, among other things, in Storm Water Pipes.

The plumbing specialist specializes in knowing about heavy duty infrastructure like this - equipment that has to withstand the rigors of disruptive patterns as well as maintain stability and flow. When you think about such important infrastructure and the fact that the specialist plumber specializes in the sale and maintenance of such infrastructure, then it's just a perfunctory step forward to letting a business with such heavy undertakings to ensure the stability and flow of your home and business.

A company that specializes in areas other plumbers won't touch (like storm water) is enthusiastic about being part of the new solar, cost efficient, environmentally friendly revolution, and we are way ahead of the curve when it comes to providing information and service on both storm and solar water.


By Billy Muir
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2092563

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Remove and Replace Old Plumbing Pipes - Just Do It

Remove and Replace Old Plumbing Pipes

One of the biggest problems when doing bathroom remodels for contractors and homeowners a like is the decision to replace the old plumbing or leave it. The contractor will need to do a little bit more work and of course the biggest burden will lie on the homeowner as they will eventually find themselves paying for these repairs.

Removing and replacing old plumbing pipes isn't something that most homeowners are interested in doing. Let me tell you why, because nobody can see the new pipes and even if you tell your friends and family that you have removed and replaced your old plumbing pipes, it's not that big of a deal, except for the cost involved.

I was trying to explain this to someone the other day that had no interest in replacing the plumbing and thought that I was trying to get more money from them. That's when I realized, most homeowners aren't interested in replacing the plumbing pipes, simply because they aren't visible and they can't show them off to their friends, like they could a new bathroom vanity cabinet or shower.

The homeowner wasn't interested in replacing the plumbing, they wanted something that they could show every one. I told them, that they had better really give it some thought and consider replacing the old plumbing, once we had it exposed. I couldn't convince the person and they lost interest in me as a contractor, go figure.

When a contractor is advising you about your plumbing problems, you had better pay attention. Especially if they are going to be stripping your walls and floors down to expose the plumbing pipes, making them easier to replace.

When I use the word easier to repair, this usually means that the job will be cheaper today that it will be later, when someone has to crawl underneath your floor with a bunch of pipes and tools and work for long hours, often frustrated, this could get expensive.

You can pay me now or you can pay me later, the choice is up to you, but I would suggest that you really give it some thought, if you ever have the opportunity to replace old plumbing pipes with new ones.



By Greg Vandenberge
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3017068

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The Most Popular Pipes Used By Pipefitters

There are many available types of pipe for the pipefitting trades. I've worked with all of them. From black steel to blue brute underground piping, you name it and I've installed it at one time or another around the Los Angeles area. While you may think if you have seen one type of pipe then you have seen them all, think again. The wrong pipe installed in the wrong location can spell financial and structural disaster in just a few short months.

Black Steel - the standby for sprinkler and gas lines. This type of pipe is available in varying wall thickness, called "schedule". The standard thickness for black steel pipe is schedule 40, which is more than enough steel to allow for machine threading. Black Steel piping can never be used for water supply lines; it is used primarily for gas lines and for automatic fire protection systems.

In recent years, the high cost of steel has spawned a thinner schedule pipe that is less expensive to manufacture but still allows for machine threading. While the thinner schedule piping can significantly save on material costs (especially when installing a new system in a high-rise building or equally large structure), there have been many instances when the thinner piping could not handle machine threading and ultimately had to be uninstalled due to leaks or pipe ruptures.

Most contractors (and installers) prefer to use schedule 40 pipe even though it is more expensive to purchase. The lower schedule (thinner) piping is perfectly fine for machine-grooved installations that require the use of mechanical couplings.

PVC Plastic - Most common piping used for drain lines inside and outside of the house. This type of piping is easy to work with and can seemingly last forever. When used on supply lines, extra care must be taken during installation because PVC joints have been known to fail during prolonged use under pressure.

CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride) - CPVC has proven itself as a replacement to copper piping. It can handle high supply pressure, is easy to install, is immune to aggressive water that would otherwise eat through copper piping, and can handle 180 degree water temperature.

CPVC is substantially less expensive when compared to purchasing and installing copper piping. When working within your house, CPVC is by far the easiest piping to work with. However, not all cities have adopted CPVC for residential use. Check with your local planning department to find out if this type of piping is approved for use in your city.

Galvanized Steel - well known for being the strongest piping available for supply lines, Galvanized steel requires special threading dies and cutters. In the mid 90's, I installed an entire Galvanized steel sprinkler system for a 3,000 square foot office in Beverly Hills. Our fabricator mistakingly used the wrong dies for threading the pipe. The result: leaks, leaks, and more leaks!

The system had over 100 leaks throughout the suite and we worked for weeks to try to fix each individual leak before realizing the error had been made by the fabrication company. Eventually, we had to tear the system out and completely reinstall it with black steel piping.

Copper Pipe - This is the most common piping used for supply lines. It is available in both rigid and flexible format. Copper Piping can be connected by two different methods: soldering and compression fittings. The better piping will require soldering.

Ductile Iron Pipe - This is the ideal choice for high pressure, underground water supply lines. It is stronger and easier to tap into for future water supply. Compared to other piping made from other materials, it requires much less support and provides a better flow of water.

Those are the primary types of piping available to fire sprinkler fitters, plumbers, and steam fitters. Each trade has its own preferred (and often required) type of piping. And every pipe type requires special tools and skills in order to cut, prepare, and install.

Interested in working with pipe for a living? The pay is great and work is always plentiful. Check with your local pipefitters union to learn more about your local pipe trades.


By Jonathan Zemeckis
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/1132768

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The Dangers of Frozen Water in Your Pipes

Frozen pipes may not seem like a common occurrence on the West Coast, particularly in Southern California where the climate is typically warm and temperate throughout the year. Even in the coldest weeks of winter, SoCal rarely reaches the conditions that would cause substantial problems with ice that the rest of the country has to deal with. However, this does not mean that the area does not have to take precautions during wintertime. With recent weather patterns, colder-than-normal winters are a factor that can cause water to freeze inside the pipes in your home, leading to substantial problems if not noticed and addressed immediately.

Under normal circumstances where a house is designed and constructed properly, water should not freeze in the pipes as there are a number of steps taken to prevent the issue before it can happen. Pipes that are closer to the outside walls, or in areas more exposed to the outside weather such as attics or crawl spaces, are usually insulated to prevent drastic temperate changes. Be sure to check on the insulation to make sure it is present and in good repair; if not, the first step should be to reapply any worn or stripped material.

Depending on how your home is designed and the devices you have connected to your water pipes, there are some other steps to take to prevent frozen pipes from becoming a reality. If you plan to be gone from your household for an extended period of time during winter, disconnecting outside hoses such as garden hoses is a must. Be sure to drain the excess water from the hoses as well as the pipes, and if possible, shut off the water valve to prevent any unnecessary water from building up in the pipes. To do this, simply shut off the water main and run all of the faucets in the home until no more water comes out.

In addition to insulating pipes, certain other steps may be needed to minimize the impact of exposed pipes. While the majority of plumbing in a home can be insulated or located in areas where warmer air circulates, there are specific places where this may not be possible. One (very costly) solution, if you live in a colder area where freezing is a common occurrence, is to have a plumber redesign the layout entirely and reroute the problematic piping to warmer parts of a home. Since this usually isn't too practical, another idea would be to ensure that insulation is applied not only to the pipe, but the area is protected from gaps where cold air can leak through by caulking. Even the tiniest of holes and cracks can significantly lower the air temperature in an area over time.

One last resort is to leave a very small amount of water running over an extended period of time. While this doesn't directly help with keeping water from freezing, it can relieve pressure from the pipes in the event ice does begin to form. With constant water flow, even if it's a small amount, the pressure release can delay or even prevent an inevitable burst pipe when ice buildup makes it difficult for existing water to move. This should really only be used on pipes that are exposed, as it wastes water and isn't necessary on insulated pipes that won't be prone to freezing water.

In the event that water does freeze and cause ice buildup, the flow within the pipes will become backed up to the point where water pressure will cause the weakest portion of the pipe to burst. Once this happens, time becomes the most important factor in the equation. If you are at the residence and able to address the problem, make sure to shut off the source of the water first and foremost. In any water damage emergency, mitigating the leak will help prevent damage from spreading and should always be done once the safety of the inhabitants is secured. From there on, leave the faucet open and contact your local water damage professionals to come out and assess the situation properly, as trying to fix the situation yourself can potentially cause more problems.

As you can see, even though freezing may not be as serious of an issue as the East Coast, there are still many possible ways that winter weather can cause problems for your home if it is not properly safeguarded. Make sure to take some of the basic steps outlined above and you can be sure that your home will be largely protected from the elements. For more extensive measures, in the event that you life in a much colder part of the States, make sure to speak with a certified plumber to get the best idea of what would be required to protect your pipes.



By Jeffrey Yang  |
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7512766

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Pipes & Tubing's - Choose Your Flavor

If you are planning on building a new home or just remodeling your existing home one of the tougher decisions you may have is choosing the right pipe for your project.  Not all piping is created equal, there are several different flavors on the market today that are old, new and true so which is right for you?

If you have your own well the first thing you should do is get a water sample and send it in to your state water testing facility. They will test your water for hardness, types of metals that are in your water and the ph or acidity levels.

If your acidity levels are high I would definitely recommend staying away from any metal piping such as copper or galvanized. Use any of the following plastic pipes and tubing below. More about active water in a moment.

CPVC: This was the first plastic to cut into the copper market, as a matter of fact, my house was originally plumb with cpvc piping. The problem I had with this piping is after 15 years of use and when I finally had to make a repair to the system, it crack three foot down the pipe when I made my cut with ratcheting scissors.

PEX tubing: This is the king of all of the plastics as far as I am concern. I love this stuff. It is also the fastest to install over any other pipes or tubing's on the market today. Although the tools to install this type of tubing is quite costly.

Let's talk a bit about my favorite piping, the old but true metal pipe copper. Besides Galvanized, this is the stuff all of us old timers cut our teeth on and if you have a home that is thirty years or older, more than likely this is the type of water supply you have in your home. Copper commonly comes in roll tubing in boxes of 25 feet to 100 feet per box or rigid sticks of 10' to 20' feet in length. There are three grades of copper pipe: Type K, is the thickest of the three pipes. It has green lettering on pipe and is the most expensive. L piping has blue lettering and M has red lettering. L and M grade copper is the most commonly used in residential plumbing.  The common use with type K is in industrial plumbing systems or refrigeration. Low bidders usually use type M copper pipe. Diameter References:

Copper comes in both inside (ID) and outside diameters (OD). Plumbers use ID diameters, while HVAC Installers use OD for the same tubing. The Common ½-in. copper tubing used in residential plumbing is also referred to as 5/8- in. tubing in the HVAC industry.

Repair

For the home owner, repairing any of the above pipes and tubing mention in this article is a snap. Purchase "shark bites" fitting and the u shaped tool to mend or add to any part of your system. Shark bite fittings can be found at your local plumbing shop. They are a little costly, but you will make the cost back in time and ease of use.

In the last few years Copper has been getting a bad name because acidic water or active water will corrode the pipe.

Plus the EPA commission has listed copper as contaminate. It is my understanding that the maximum level of copper, according to EPA standards, is 1.3 parts per million (1.3 mg/L). Copper tubing should not be installed for water piping systems having acidic water conditions with a pH of 8.5 or less. Private wells and mountain communities can have a pH of less than 6.5 This is why I recommend that you test the pH of your water if you plan to use copper or any type of metal piping for your potable water system.

If you are on a community water system, check with your local authorities for recommendations. I also recommend, not to install metal piping without conditioning the water with an acid neutralizer first. Rigid copper needs to be solder. If you are not familiar with the soldering procedure involved in making a leak free joint then I recommend that you call your local plumber to install or repair your plumbing system.

By William R. Cato
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/2856243

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